Why Peru: The Conclusion

After being in Peru for two months, I haven’t been everywhere by any means. Overall I spent one month in Lima, a bit too much but it was all worth it. I didn’t make it to the jungle, park Manu, the Nazca lines or Paracas and there are a lot of small villages I have yet to explore. However I am leaving Peru knowing why I came. If someone were to ask me, “why should I go to Peru?"I would now be able to fully answer that question of why Peru but it isn’t a simple answer.
You can literally find the whole world in Peru and there is something to suit everyone. The answer really depends on who you are talking to. Surfers should head to the north where there are endless beaches of perfect rolling waves. You can find Switzerland in the Cordillera Blanca with its snow capped mountains and aqua coloured lakes. There is the rich and mysterious Amazon jungle for the adventure seeker. Then there is Lima my home away from home. Lima is a massive city on the coast modern and bustling with life. My favourite neighbourhoods were Miraflores, Barranco and the Historic Centre. South of Lima was where I took up sand boarding in the Oasis of Huacachina with the most amazing desert I have ever seen. In the same region you can check out the Nazca lines, national park Paracas and the Ballestas islands. Indulge in some wine and Pisco tasting near Ica. You cannot forget the famous Machu Picchu, which is a must on every traveller’s list. If you an animal fan especially of the bird variety, park Manu is for you with its list of flora and fauna that includes 1,000 species of birds, more than 200 species of mammals, 13 species of monkey, a great variety of butterflies and 15,000 species of flowering plants. Have you always wanted to see the Grand Canyon? Well why not see one bigger in Peru, with hot springs, condors flying above and Oasis’s? Discover the highest lake in the world, Lake Titicaca with islands to hike on and floating reed islands to enjoy.
Peru isn’t just about the sights and tourist attractions though. I met a couple who told me they only wanted to spend two weeks in Peru. Two weeks?! I couldn’t believe it. They thought Peru was just a place to do treks. Obviously they hadn’t been to Peru yet. You need more time to learn about and take in the culture. The people of Peru and their story are amazing. I found Peruvians incredible friendly, warm and welcoming. They want to share everything with you and make sure you leave their country with a lasting positive impression.
If you have travelled Central America by the time you get to Peru you are probably sick and fed up of beans and rice. Don’t get me wrong I love Gallo Pinto but after 6 month of it you crave a change. The cuisine of Peru is up there with the best in the world. Peruvian food rivals with French and Japanese. Peru is actually the home of Ceviche and on a hot day sitting on one of Peru’s finest beaches there is nothing better than Ceviche and a beer. Tacu tacu is a fine Peruvian dish as well. I was lucky enough to stay with locals in Miraflores who wanted me to try every Peruvian dish possible. I always had a full happy belly in Lima. Not only can you find fantastic Peruvian food but in Lima there are some of the best chefs from around the world. You can eat fantastic Japanese, Chinese, Italian, French, anything you heart desires Lima is serving only the finest.
Don’t let the Chileans misinform you, Pisco is the national drink of Peru and was invented there. There has been a long rival between the countries dating back before the Pacific wars. Chile also has a town called Pisco and claims it is theirs, but we know better. The liquor is very strong but when made into a Pisco Sour (pisco, lime, sugar, egg white and ice blended with bitters on top); it is a sweet, bitter little heavenly cloud in a cup that can get you very drunk.
You cannot forget my favourite soft drink, Inca Kola unique and original to Peru. The only company Coca cola could not beat out. Unfortunately when Coke lost the battle of sales with Inca Kola they bought them out. Inca Kola still stands to be a symbol of Peru.
I could literally go on forever about why you should go to Peru, the mountain climbing, rafting, rock climbing, ancient wonders, the music, the Afro Peruvian culture, the art, the markets and the people.
Come Peru for Machu Picchu but leave knowing so much more. My advice though is not just to read this. Don’t sit there and think wow that sounds amazing, I wish I could go. Come and explore and discover for yourself. The whole world awaits you in one country.

Mancora es de Puta Madre

Sorry for the language but this was a saying on many t-shirts in Mancora and with reason. I first heard of Mancora on a fancy Cruz del Sur bus from Lima to Arequipa. A fancy bus was needed for the 15 hour over night journey. They showed a tourist program on the television displaying the beaches of Peru. A beautiful Peruvian girl was the host. She mentioned all the fantastic things to do in Mancora; you can surf, take a boat ride and even do a photo shoot. She then parading around Mancora and wiggled in the sand making ridiculous poses for her DIY photo shoot. It was so cheesy I knew from that moment I had to go to Mancora just to make a photo shoot for myself.
When I was in the beach village of Huanchaco other travellers were giving me their impressions of Mancora. They said it was very touristic and the only reason to go would be to surf or party. Quite a few people didn’t like Mancora at all. Huanchaco is a beautiful beach where you mostly find gorgeous surfers and local tourists. Its calm and I was camping in a little garden oasis. It’s also known for the Pescadores (fishermen) who still fish like they did years ago in Caballitos de Tortora (little horses of reeds), which are boats made out of reeds. You can take a ride in the surf with them for a small fee. Caballitos, ceviche and a calm oasis were fantastic but after the lack of party in Huaraz I was ready for some action so I headed off on a night bus with four Americans to Mancora.
We arrived at 5:00am to an empty beach which a few people who looked like they were still partying from the night before. After finding a hotel and getting some much deserved rest I parked myself on the beach near some good looking Argentineans with a guitar. They soon came over to chat with me (like clockwork). That’s when it started; the Argentineans had an endless supply of wine which we drank out of a melon with sugar and ice. It was fantastic and tasted like Kool-aid. The American guys found me and joined in on the Melon passing. We then also acquired a coconut which we added rum to. An afternoon on the beach became seven hour of sipping out of a melon in the same spot. Dinner was 2 liters of beer and a burger which was followed by a dessert; shots of pure Pisco. The bar beside our hotel had live music which started at midnight, where more beers were consumed. Hours later the beach bars thumped reggeaton until the early hours of the morning. We all woke up the next morning wondering what happened the night before. Chris was convinced someone had taking his wallet, took the cash but put the rest back and put his cards in a different pocket. Uh huh sure.
A few more days of this followed until I decided to get the feck out of Mancora to what I thought would be a calmer beach in Ecuador, Montanita. Little did I know Mancora is not a Puta Madre at all! It’s a small innocent child compared to the insanity of Montanita. Before I get ahead of myself and jump into Ecuador there was the case of the border crossing into Ecuador….

Inca Kola

Staying in quite a posh part of Lima with a wealthy family you notice the class differences in the city. I had breakfast brought to my room. I would put my clothes out and fairies would take them away and bring them back clean. I ate fantastic food in the best restaurants. I was completely spoiled and it’s hard for me to admit this but I kind of liked it and it was a bit too easy to get used to.
The reality of Peru is you have the poor, the wealthy and the filthy disgusting rich but not really much of a middle class. This is the problem a lot of countries, especially Latin American countries face and Peru is right up there with the best of them.
Lima is a large city but the social circles that people move in are tight and closed off. You don’t approach a girl in a bar, you need to know her name, who her family is, where she went to school, wait for a friend to introduce you and vice versa. Party’s not just bars have guest lists and no matter who you are you can’t enter if your name is not in print.
In places people go without water to bathe in but if you go to the city centre you can see El Ciruito magico del agua a beautiful park that cost the city approx 16 million dollars, with impressive fountains and lights flowing to music. An amazing spectacle of flowing water.
There are parts of Lima not even Limenos will go they are too dangerous. Shanty towns can be seen sprawling up the hill of the Cerro del Azul.
There are extreme social differences in this country but you can find this in countries the world over. It’s not unique to Peru. Although, what is unique to this country is its strong sense of nationalistic pride. Peruvians are quite proud people and with reason which transcends classes. The symbol of this sense of unity and national pride can be found in the shabbiest eatery in the dodgiest part of town to every single table in the fanciest restaurant in the rich and prestigious neighbourhoods. The beverage that transcends the class system of Peru and is a symbol of the country is Inca Kola.
Inca Kola has a long history; it was created in 1935 in the Rimac a neighbourhood of Lima. It soon became very popular and reached the status of the drink of Peru. Coca-Cola was not able to beat Inca Cola in the Peruvian market so they did what Coke only knows how to do; they bought 50% of the Inca Kola Corporation.
The taste of Peru was bought out and the recipe changed. Perhaps it was a good thing, now the beverage is being pushed in other countries by the help of Coke but it does hurt the Peruvian pride just a bit.
Peru is a fantastic country with so much to offer; it has the resources and diversity to do really well in the global market but lacks the human capital which makes it still a developing country. There needs to be less of a social economic divide in this country for it to progress. Maybe they should be listening more to what their favourite beverage is saying, “Con creatividad todo es posible”

“With creativity anything is possible.”

Traveller Fashion

While traveling you come across traveller clothes. The more a person has been travelling the more they acquire. You find people wearing Llama sweaters, socks, leg warmers, wool hats from Peru and hats in Ecuador. Bracelets from hippie artisans are collected in each stop along the way, they reach up your arms and on your ankles. You see travellers with the baggy MC hammer pants which are a favourite in Argentina. There are also the cropped stripped pants that tie at the bottom. I wasn’t that impressed with the clothing, although I did buy an Inca Kola t-shirt and a Llama sweater to keep warm in Cusco.
Then I came to Huanchaco, a small village to the north of Trujillo on the coast. I arrived at the Naylamp hostel very early in the morning. There was the choice of a private room, a dorm or camping. I was shown each option and knew exactly where I was going to stay when I saw a guy with the longest dreads I have ever seen immerge from his tent. Camping it was, in the garden oasis of Naylamb.
After I put up my tent, and I can proudly say I managed it all by myself,I spotted a Peruvian girl laying out a bunch of clothes, curious and a huge fan of clothing I went over to chat to her. I found out that she is friends with the owner of the hostel and is opening a shop in the front of it. Most of the clothes she brought back from India but her and her husband specialize in making clothing and sandals from leather. She also has a shop near Cusco in the Sacred Valley. I dived right into her bag of beautiful silks and leather trying on everything that I could. She told me she wanted to open up a shop because the area lacks nice clothing. The clothes the souvenir shops sell are quite awful. So I gave up on the budget I had made for myself for the remainder of my time in Peru and treated myself to two wrap around silk skirts and a silver anklet with bells.
People are more open to try new things while travelling and fashion is a part of that. You can get inspired by what you see while traveling. One of the English girls I was with previously in Arequipa and Bolivia was inspired by the artesian hippy clothes and decided to start a blog documenting the fashion she sees as she makes her way around the world on her gap year. You can check out Allegra’s blog at http://gypsyfashionista.blogspot.com . She will be studying fashion at university in England and is quite the trend setter herself. I am sure her year abroad will bring new elements to fashion in England.

The Chocho Mystery: Huaraz, Peru

Every different place I visit holds new treats to be tested that are unique to the region. I am always eager to try out a new sweet, chocolate, drink or street food. In the beautiful mountain town of Huaraz set in the Cordillera Blanca with snow capped mountains, curiosity was getting the better of me when I saw signs for Chocho everywhere. What could Chocho possibly be? The bar beside my hotel had one such sign so it had me convinced that Chocho was an alcoholic beverage. Could it be a chocolate alcohol?
After days of pondering Chocho I finally had the chance to go out and try some. I was sitting in a restaurant when someone handed me a flyer for a party in a bar. Huaraz is in low season for tourism so I was alone but thought I would go to the bar anyway. I was also eavesdropping on the good looking guys at the next table who were going. When in the bar I introduced myself to said good looking guys who happened to be Peruvian university students doing research in a small village near Huaraz. They were quite funny and I had a good laugh chatting with them. When it came time to order a drink I said I wanted Chocho. They looked at me like I was crazy. They had no idea what I was talking about. Maybe I wasn’t saying it right. They thought this whole Chocho business was pretty funny and it became a running joke throughout the night. After many beers we were saying salud for Chocho. My nicknames became Tracy Crazy and Teresita Chocho. I wasn’t crazy there is such thing as Chocho! When we left the bar, I dragged Omar (one of the guys) to the bar beside my hotel, but the bar was closed and there was no sign for Chocho. How could it be gone? Maybe I was going mad.
The next morning I walked outside and there it was Chocho, where was Omar now? He came by my hotel later on and told me he was surprised to see the Chocho sign as well and thought I had made it and put it there. We decided to end the mystery and find out what it was. I walked in and straight up to the owner and asked what is Chocho. We found out it is like a bean or chick pea. People eat Chocho in the afternoon with beer. It’s a social thing to sit with a beer and chocho and talk. We then ordered Chocho and a beer on a Sunday afternoon.
The bar was actually quite cool but dated. Looked like it had its hay day back in the grunge era of the late 80’s early 90’s and looked like my dad decorated it, with pictures of Elvis and the Beatles, light fixtures made out of beer crates and wood beams everywhere. After having quite an interesting conversation about the bar and Peru with the owner we emerged into the daylight full from Chocho and beer. I haven’t gone mad just yet.

New Years in Lima

I decided to take a 24 hour bus from Cusco to ring in the new year in Lima, my Peruvian home. Its nice to have somewhere to come back to with familiar faces and a comfortable bed. Time escapes me in Miraflores I lazily sleep in, watch TV and have delightful lunches with my friend and his Dad. New Years was an intimate affair spent with the wealthy twenty somethings of Lima. The location: on a beach south of Lima in a house which is built into a private rock island. I didn’t drink much due to a headache from drinking beer all day in the heat without food. Perhaps it was better that way, I remembered everything and rung in 2010 with champagne while witnessing fire works being set off in the distance along the bay.
What will 2010 bring? More travels, more friends, more adventures, more happiness. It can only get better. Feliz Ano Nuevo

Machu Picchu

When most people are asked; why Peru? The general consensus would be to see Machu Picchu, and yes I admit that was one of the main reasons why I had an interest in Peru. That and one of my tourism college Professors really liked to say Titicaca a lot. It’s a major tourist attraction and now one of the Seven New Wonders of the world. It may be a bit over rated and overly touristic especially after staying a night in the fake town of Aguas Caliente built solely to house the Machu Picchu traffic. In the end it is still Machu Picchu, an ancient mystery, an advance civilization and it will always be breath taking. It is ruins of a lost civilization that will never be forgotten. What makes it more incredible than other ruins it its location, high up in the mountains with the peak of Wyna Picchu towering over it. A lot of people take the infamous Inca trail to get to it. I on the other hand didn’t want to pay a left nut (or a left boob for that matter) to get there. Instead I took the cheaper but still adventurous option of the Inca Jungle trek.
The first day we biked down a mountain in the cold pouring rain through rivers and mud slides. The second day was a tough hike in the hot jungle with the reward of hot springs at the end. Day three was more jungle trekking. Our guide snuck us off the trail and away from the other groups through palm trees of every fruit you could imagine, to a beautiful cascading waterfall. It was freezing cold but refreshing. The final day, the day I had been waiting for since I jumped on a plane to Peru was the hike to Machu Picchu. We left at 4:00am in the pitch black and pouring rain. Heaving a bag full of extra clothes and food I forced my way up every one of the Inca steps. The air was moist and the altitude high where breathing wasn’t so easy. I was convinced I was going to die before I would make it to Machu Picchu. The guide said this wasn’t a competition but somehow I was lagging behind as the young American college students flew up, apparently they didn’t listen. The rain died down and I knew I was close. With some encouragement from the guide I made it to the top and we were at the gates waiting by 6:00am. Everyone was assigned a guide, mine was Miguel. Once in and with Miguel the rain came again and in full force. We were all freezing and wet. To top it off there was so much cloud and fog from the rain you could barely see 10 meters in front of you. This is it? I thought. Yes, I went to Machu Picchu but I saw feck all. I had almost given up hope when Miguel finally shut up and the rain stopped. The cloud and fog cleared enough to see the grandeur of Machu Picchu. I got some amazing photos and views before the swarm of tourists arrived and I found myself stuck in a mob of photo happy Asians.
Peru isn’t just Machu Picchu but no matter how touristic it is one cannot come to this country without seeing it. It’s like going to a Japanese restaurant where they don’t have any wasabi.

Christmas in Cusco

Growing up I couldn’t imagine a Christmas without snow. I loved the holiday season and couldn’t wait for the first snow fall. As I got older Christmas lost the magic. It was all about buying unnecessary presents and completely commercial. Without young children in my family it was just another day.
The last four years I have been in a different country for Christmas. It has had a different meaning for me. I have escaped the commercialization of western society. My first Christmas abroad was in a desert Oasis in Egypt. Being Muslim in Egypt they don’t even celebrate Christmas. I celebrated with my boyfriend at the time and a Jewish Australian kid by having a huge Indian meal. Christmas day my stomach was not agreeing with the Indian. To cure this I downed a litre of mango juice, which found me behind any clump of dirt in the barren desert I could find as I shat liquid green. That was the only Christmas present I received that year.
The last three years have been in Latin America, countries where Christmas is celebrated but with less commercialization, more focus on religion and a lot of focus on fiestas. Fireworks are set off throughout the month of December. Christmas lights and point zetas take over the central squares, carnivals and Christmas fairs line the streets. Families come together to rejoice and let loose in festive flair.
In most of the world Christmas is celebrated on Dec 24th, this Christmas Eve in Cusco, Peru, I noticed from my balcony that there was a huge line of Indian women and children starting from my hotel and curving down the street. I was touched to find out the hotel was giving free bread and hot chocolate to the poor. As well the Plaza del Armas was turned into a huge Christmas and artesian market.
That evening I decided to treat myself to a bottle of wine which led to another during dinner with a Peruvian friend. I was in such good festive spirits that I felt the need to spread the Christmas cheer to everyone on the street, telling them Feliz noche Buena and Feliz navidad. I even bought a street kid some chocolate and picked up another and swung him around. Alright so at this point Christmas cheer was also drunken cheer. I was delighted to find Santa Claus in Peru, with his red Santa hat, white beard, jiggly belly and Hawaiian shirt. From the rich to the poor Christmas was about having a good time. People did this by setting off fire crackers and fireworks all night. Cusco is in a valley surrounded by mountains with neighbourhoods crawling up the hills, on Christmas Eve at midnight from a neighbourhood high up above the city, there was an unreal sight. It looked like a scene from the war but instead of bombs fireworks were set off from all corners of the city
I don’t know what it is about Christmas in another country; perhaps the new and unknown bring back the excitement and magic of Christmas to me. Maybe one day when I am older I will be dreaming of a white Christmas again. Until then, foreign lands, sunny beaches and fiestas are where I will be. Feliz Navidad.

Travelling Alone

In the recent years I have always travelled alone, which shocks some. The thing about being a traveller though is you are never alone. There is a whole community of people out there backpacking and travelling the world whither it is an around the world gap year, rail trip across Europe or six months in South America. The thing about these people is they want to see everything and meet everyone. It’s not strange to sit beside someone on a bus, and then a few hours later you are off together exploring another city sharing a beer on the street. You never know what will happen after sharing a taxi with another traveller.
Travellers are more open, they want to meet you, and there are no barriers, no social incorrectness. Friends are made in a taxi, on a bench, in a hostel dorm room, in an instant. I miss this world when I am not in it. It was what was missing when I was in Canada. People would find it strange if you just walked up to them and started a conversation out of nowhere. Do I know you? They would think. Eating alone in a restaurant or going to a bar alone is looked down upon. Doesn’t this person have any friends? For travellers this is never a question. The simple ice breaker of where are you from will then start a conversation and perhaps many rounds of beers.
I have found some of my closet friends and deepest relationships while traveling. I have shared experiences with these people that have made us close in a short period of time. These friends share my interests and way of thinking. I have picked them rather than formed a relationship through an environment such as work or school. I am still in touch with some of them, some I have seen again, others I have lost touch with completely but they are still very important to me.
We travellers have a bond, a common interest; we are the children of the world. We refuse to grow up. Everything amazes us, curiosity, the thirst for knowledge and exploration is endless.
Yes I travel alone but I am never alone or lonely.

The loss of my Mojo in La Paz

I was convinced a witch lady in La Paz took my mojo from me. I had bought a little jar from the witches market. It had in it a couple that symbolized love, a plane for travels, a key for happiness and another symbol for a safe home. All the little charms were housed in water with little bits of bright paper. I tried to talk the price down but the lady was adamant because it was multi functional, fair enough. Good luck and happiness were going to come my way. It seemed though since I bought it the opposite had happened. I had lost my mojo; I wasn’t feeling like myself and had a cloud of bad luck following me through this exasperating city. For example I broke a vase in a lavanderia then had the lady chase me down to pay a ridiculous price for it. The weather wasn’t on my side either; it had made a turn for the worst raining and cold. It was hard enough to breathe as it was. To add to it all, just to kick me when I was down, in a bar I was giving my best bedroom eyes to the one good looking guy there, when he came over and asked my friend to dance with him. My eyes had never failed me!!
I was ready to chuck my little jar of good fortune at the “witch” I bought it from when a light went off in my head during a conversation with some Aussie guys (friends of the English girls). The witch didn’t take my mojo; it had nothing to do with the little jar. I had left it in Peru! I was a legend in Peru. I fell in love with the country and radiated there. There was just something about it. So it was decided, I was returning to Peru the next morning, on a bus bound for Cusco. I was going to Machu Picchu finally and getting my mojo back.

The Coca Leaf Fortune Teller

Coca leaves aren’t actually a drug but have many uses as I started to learn in the Coca museum in La Paz until the urge to poke my eyes out from boredom became too unbearable. What did I do to deserve this place?
I did find out from a couch surfer that there are coca leaf fortune tellers in La Paz. Our hostel was right in the thick of the witches market and to my surprise the fortune teller that he took me to was almost right next door. The place was unmarked and a bit of a hole in the wall just a gated black door. We made a deal for 20 bolivanos each. I was a bit hesitant at first, I mean when someone tells you they know a guy and then he is just next door, it’s a bit odd.
He had a diploma on his wall for naturalistic medicine, a few chairs and a sheet draped across the room. I went first for my reading which was behind the sheet as well as a single bed, a small table and two chairs. Coca leaves were scattered on a cloth on the table. He did seem mystical and authentic. He didn’t have a sign outside his door and wasn’t trying to rip off tourist so all those were good signs. I had my couch surfer translate for me just to make sure I didn’t miss anything.
He told me about myself by picking up the leaves dropping them and seeing where on the cloth they landed. He told me about my health, he said I will have a job in what I studied or what I will study. He said I should plan more for the future, make decisions calmly and not be so spontaneous. Huh that doesn’t sound like me at all (I say sarcastically). He said I won’t live in Canada but will live with someone in another country.
Was love and money in the leaves for me? Well he wasn’t too positive when it came to the love aspect. He said my current interest is just for the moment and caught up with an ex. He mentioned someone from my past will come back and want to be with me but another woman is in the way. As for my writing and money he said I will do well but it will be very hard at first and very competitive. Most things seemed to ring true while others were a bit questionable. I have no idea how he can tell all these things from throwing leaves and placing them in different positions on the cloth but coca leaf fortune telling is quite a popular practice. There are many brujos (witches) in Bolivia which are frequented by the local people to help guide them in their lives. You are either born into the profession or receive a calling later on in life. The coca leaf is the key to the brujos for fortune telling, it helps them see the present, they can tell what ailments people have and how their future will be.
The coca leaf has also been important in Bolivia for many other reasons as well. Indians have used coca leaves as an anesthetic, they chew it to ward off hunger and fight altitude sickness. Mal treated miners were given coca leaves so they would work without needing to eat or rest. Then came the process of turning the leaf into Cocaine, some people may tell you the white powder can help you see your future as well….I’m not so sure, maybe that will have to wait until Colombia.

Tiesto Concert in La Paz

My second night in La Paz I went from drinking beer in a Jacuzzi to rushing around the streets of La Paz looking for the stadium which was hosting the Tiesto concert.
I had left Copacabana with one of the English girls leaving the other two, to their homeless travelling Argentinean beach party. I was at my fill of dread locks, the smell of marijuana, macramé jewellery and bongo drums. Our first night in La Paz wasn’t the greatest in a dirty hostel with an 11:00pm curfew, so not expectable. We shelled out some extra bolivianos for huge beds, a private bath, breakfast, internet, happy hour and a Jacuzzi. I was informed by some Aussies that Tiesto was having a concert that night and when the English girls met up with me I downed my beer jumped out of the Jacuzzi and was off on a mission. We needed to find the concert grounds and touts selling tickets on the street as the hostal's suuply had sold out. It turned out to be a mission indeed after we arrived at the wrong stadium and the directions weren’t so clear from randoms on the street. I stopped a sports car blaring music thinking he would have to know where it is. He gave us the name of the place and we were off running again. Holding out the hope we could still get tickets.
The smell of street meat on coal fires and the presence of police told us we were close. Rounding a corner we saw the sign and a massive crowd waiting to get in. Who knew Tiesto had such a following in Bolivia. Each of us split up looking for ticket touts and the best deal. I found a group of young Bolivian guys selling tickets for 150 Bolivianos which was a good deal. We had some concerns about if they were fake but, bought them anyway. Then the sight of the line winding down the street and through a neighbourhood took us back and we were at the end of it. At least we had our tickets and were for sure getting in. We felt better about the legitimacy of the tickets after being in the line with the guys who we bought them from. They were all around 20 years old and students. They charged us a bit more than the asking price but it worked out in the end because they feed us an endless supply of wine in the line and beer inside. It seemed bottles of wine magically came out of the darkness.
Having skipped dinner I had to buy some of the fragrant street meat with potatoes which was put in a bag for me to take away. As we were allowed to enter the grounds and had to walk for ages to get to the actual gate, I had to run to catch up holding my meat in a bag, the Bolivian boys laughed at me as I yelled, “Tengo carne en una bolsa!”
A huge stage was in front of us and the lights of La Paz surrounded us, it was an impressive scene. An Argentinean DJ got the crowd started with some great mixes but they went wild when he mixed Got a Feeling by the Black Eyed Peas. Then after much chanting Tiesto came out with a spectacle of lights and visuals. Girls were up on guy’s shoulders; arms up in the air and bodies didn’t stop moving until he was finished. The time flew by and I didn’t realize it was close to 1:00am when Tiesto mixed his final song. The energy was amazing and I couldn’t stop smiling. It truly was a once in a life time experience.

Copacabana: Police Party and Procession

We were relieved and happy to be in Copacabana after the border crossing episode. It’s quite an interesting town with a hippy traveller vibe. Loads of travelling artesian Argentineans work in the restaurants sell their jewellery or just play bongos on the street.
After a nice meal and wine we headed back to the hostel exhausted but along the way we came across a concert which turned out to be for the police. It was the day of the virgin of Copacabana who is also the patron of the police. We stood watching the music and dangerous display of fireworks spaying the crowd but were soon in a circle dancing with Bolivian men. A hot alcohol called Te con Te was being passed around as well as bottles of a mystery liquor similar to aguadiente. Every 2 minutes we were yelling salud! Then Baile! Baile! Sante! Sante! These guys were completely insane and I couldn’t stop laughing. More alcohol was being passed as well as bags of coca leaves. In between the bands the heads of police did little skits which were hilarious. Later on men came with trays of chicken sandwiches and all of these treats were free. We danced until 1:00am then the grand finale of fireworks was set off. It was a completely random first night in Bolivia.
Our first morning didn’t let down either. We went to find the procession and discovered all the drunken men we were partying with last night were police officers. As they marched past us they yelled out, “Sasha! Sasha!” For some reason they only remembered her name. We followed the procession to the lake where the virgin was being put on a boat and people were getting on other boats to follow her around Lake Titicaca. Not wanting to miss an opportunity I told our new police friends I wanted to get on a boat as well so we boarded one yelling, “Follow that virgin!” We were the only tourists in the boat procession and some of the only few who weren’t police aboard. I just kept thinking back to the guy who told me that Copacabana wasn’t that great. It just goes to show everyone can have a completely different experience in the same place. So if you are sent on going somewhere listen to yourself not other people’s opinions and you may have an amazing crazy time.

Border Crossings: Peru - Bolivia

A friend and avid traveller once told me one of his favourite things about travelling is walking across borders. With just a few steps you enter a whole different world. At the time though I didn’t quite understand him, I had worked for an airline and flew everywhere.

Since my first border walk across at the Taba Ilat border to enter Israel I have collected many stamps and fought my way through the hectic furry that comes with crossing a border, the guys on bikes trying to rip you off, people trying to sell you a tourist form that is actually free, money exchangers following you. Although it can be frustrating and sometimes stressful I have come to appreciate what my friend was talking about. Past all the nonsense and with a few steps is a different country, an unknown place yet to be discovered, sometimes a different language, different landscape or the differences could be subtle, the vendors on the buses are yelling out gaseosas instead of refrescos.

Then there was the Peru – Bolivia border crossing. I decided to leave with the English girls for Bolivia. Another traveller in the hostel asked when our bus was leaving and what company we were going with, a traveller with a plan. Our idea was just to show up and hop on the next bus. Everything seemed to go smoothly in the beginning; we got onto a bus to Puno right away. Once in Puno everyone told us we didn’t have enough time to get to the border. It was 3:00pm and the border closed at 6:00pm. I figured they were lying; we could easily get the local transport and get there. The girls were too worried because they figured I was older and more travelled therefore knew what I was doing, little did they know even though I have been doing this for years I still fumbled my way through. We found a collective bus that was supposed to take us to the border. I was starting to worry when I looked down at my IPod and saw that it was 5:20pm. We got dropped at road crossing and as soon as we got off we were being harassed by a taxi driver. He was trying to promise to take us to the border direct on his bus for 5 soles each, which is ridiculous. I was trying to talk to another bus driver and the girls with him yelling in my ear. I turned around and Shushed him while Sasha yelled, “No es un bus es un taxi!!” I made an executive decision to take the collective bus for 1 sole. As soon as I got on the bus I felt 4 more soles might have been worth it to guarantee our arrival at the border on time. We were in a panic realizing the bus drivers here are not at all like the crazy ones in Lima. A bus with the name Kevin over took us. Why weren’t we on Kevin?! Time was running out and we made it to the dodgy border town by 6:00pm but the actual border was still a taxi ride away. I was determined to make it across no matter what. I mean there isn’t a wall separating the two countries, we could just made a run for it and be illegal in Bolivia. We had to run from one plaza to another to actually get a taxi. Katie suggested just staying in the border town but I was determined to get across. We got mixed messages about when the border closes and our new taxi driver told us it was still open. A little light of hope but Sasha wasn’t convinced. I think our hearts stopped pounding when we saw it open and a tourist bus pulling through. We just slipped by as we got our exit stamps leaving a giant statue of Cusquena beer and Peru behind. As we entered Bolivia the gates closed behind us.

Active in Arequipa: Cocla Canyon Trek

I could have stayed in Lima forever but adventure and the wonders that Peru holds beckoned me. I was no longer going to be lazy in Lima. With a heavy heart I boarded a 15 hour bus for Arequipa in the south.
Arequipa is famous for the mountains, volcanoes and nearby Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. I guess the Grand Canyon in The United States really isn’t so grand. With all of these topographical features come hostels and agencies trying to sell you treks. Don’t get me wrong I’m quite an active sporty person but in the past I have seemed to turn my nose up to these overpriced, herd you like cattle up a mountain treks. The lure of an oasis with a swimming pool and hot springs was too tempting. I just had to get past the fact that the tour left a 3:00am.
On the bus leaving we past people entering bars, they were starting their night and I was starting a trek. Manicures and pedicures of Lima soon gave way to dirty finger nails and sweaty smelly feet. It wasn’t as bad as I expected. The first day we hiked down in to the canyon after spotting condors. It was hot and dry and my fingers turned into fat sausages from the altitude. A mud hut with dirt for floors awaited us for our first nights rest. I shared my hut with three English girls, Sasha, Allegra and Katie.
The second day was a bit of a tease from where we started trekking you could see down into the canyon at our oasis with swimming pool and waterfall but looking down into a canyon objects seem closer than they appear. We eventually reached our paradise after 5 hours of walking down on a windy trail in the dry sun.
Day number three, the hike up. I wasn’t sure I would be able to handle 3 hours of uphill hiking. I’m not experienced at all. Then visions of Volcan Baru in Panama came flooding back where Peace Core volunteers convinced me to climb a volcano in the middle of the night for the sun rise. Like the savvy traveller I am I brought my carton of wine to enjoy the view. Seven hours later of straight up hill in the dark then pouring rain in minus temperatures at the top, all the time lugging my wine. So this time I was prepared, water and my IPod. Daddy Yankee, Shakira, ABBA and the Bangles joined me on my ascend to the top. I was cruising along, leaving my group behind and passing others. A friendly local man with a Donkey put out his hand which I thought he wanted to encourage me; instead he pulled me down the trail while laughing at me. Despite his attempt I made it to the top with Sasha. We were one of the first up. Now I am addictited. I crave more treks, more moutains and volcanos!!